"Crossover Design for New Project"

[westend9]

Still watching this with interest. I would think that building the woofer boxes as modular units (somewhat as to your original design) would be the most efficient process. Adjusting box volume and port tuning could be done to each woofer, as needed. The boxes could be stacked for evaluation and then a panel could be removed from one box to combine the two, if necesary.

Locating the tweeter could be done after the boxes are built, trying different vertical positions in order to present the best dispersion and results to the listening location. A permanent mount would follow. My gut feeling is that a top-most location (above the mid horn) is going to bring the best results but your efforts may prove different. As to difficulty of mounting the tweeter above the mid horn, a good "cobbler" could have a bracket assembly built for that in short order.

I've been following other "three-way" Altec builds and I think there is a lot of work to make the tweeter integrate well with the rest. I am looking for a better active crossover to help with that. I initially used a Behringer CX3400 and it sold me on the use of active crossovers, especially with Altec Model 19 drivers.

Good luck with your project, looking forward to your results.

[vyju]

Hi,

I have been following this thread with great interest.

I have a pair of 416A 16 ohm woofers and a pair of 605B's (16 ohm).

I have been toying with several ideas on how to use these drivers.One was to use the 416 woofers in an Onken cabinet and the 605B's in an open baffle mounted above the Onken.

Another was to use both the 416 and 605's in a big reflex cabinet as a three way.

Looking for suggestions from members on how best to use these drivers.

I also have a pair of 515B's and 288-16G and 805 horns.Would a 416+515+288 combo work? Crossover points?

Regards
Rajiv

[Panomaniac]

One was to use the 416 woofers in an Onken cabinet and the 605B's in an open baffle mounted above the Onken.

Interesting idea.

See my rig here: 605+woofer at LSAF You could do that, too. Or just the 605s in an Onken cab.

[Cal Weldon]

One was to use the 416 woofers in an Onken cabinet and the 605B's in an open baffle mounted above the Onken.

That sounds like a great idea. Pano could probably help with the details as that's a road already traveled for him.

Another was to use both the 416 and 605's in a big reflex cabinet as a three way.

Not so easy as you would have the backwave of the 416 interfering with the 605 unless you separated the 605 in it's own cabinet. I like the first idea better.

I also have a pair of 515B's and 288-16G and 805 horns.Would a 416+515+288 combo work? Crossover points?

Again not ideal. Two different woofers in the same box doesn't make sense. The 515 and the 288 are rightfully their own system.

[vyju]

Hi,

Panomaniac,Cal,thank you for your suggestions.

Panomaniac, your speakers look great,and a lot easier to build than the Onken +OPEN BAFFLE.

I would like your inputs on an woofer to replace the 18 inch Eminence which is not in production. Would the 416 be suitable?

If I go with Onken +open baffle what would be the ideal crossover point from the 416 to 605 .Can I then use the Jeff Markwart crossover for the 605?

I got this idea from this picture of a speaker at the ETF2009

Regards
Rajiv

[Panomaniac]

Hi Rajiv. We are really threadjacking here, maybe Todd can move this to a new thread.

A 416 would be OK on the bottom end. A good 18" would be better. It was crossed low, 3rd order. Not sure I remember where - I'll have to ask John B as it's really his rig.
The fun thing was that on some music you could turn off the sub and not even notice it. But on other tracks it was essential.

Let me see if I can dig up the crossover points.

[GM]

Here's a rough idea on what cabinet I would like to have.A ported bass bin box.With each box about 7-8 cu. ft. stacked or 1 box with separation in the middle.Would this design work with the sled on top and the T350 in the top of cabinet.I need to decide on the LF cabinet so I can get started designing the Crossovers for this project.Any thoughts guys.Thank You in advance for any more help or suggestions. Regards ~ John

Well, I've voiced my reason why not to use this TMM (or TWW, depending on how you want to look at it) layout and offered what I consider two viable alternatives (one too wide, no comment on the MTM), but if this is what you want, then go for it.

The super tweeter in theory needs to be vertically oriented and above the mid horn, though if XO'd high enough and/or steep enough its pattern has collapsed enough to not matter.

GM

[Altec Best]

We are really threadjacking here, maybe Todd can move this to a new thread.

Thanks Pano :2thumbsup: Vyju at the top of the page it says New Thread (You Can Start One)

Well, I've voiced my reason why not to use this TMM (or TWW, depending on how you want to look at it) layout and offered what I consider two viable alternatives (one too wide, no comment on the MTM), but if this is what you want, then go for it.

The super tweeter in theory needs to be vertically oriented and above the mid horn, though if XO'd high enough and/or steep enough its pattern has collapsed enough to not matter.

GM

Hi GM, No it was just a question I haven't decided on it yet that is why I'm here to get the best possible design I can. MTM would mean I would have to mount the horn in between the woofers correct? Which I would like to avoid for weight issue. Having a sled on top would make them more easy to handle/move. I'm just looking for the best sounding cabinet I can for the drivers I have.I really need to get the LF/Bass Bins and Xo's correct I feel they are what will make or break the speaker.So it is absolutely critical to get this part right.As I'm using horns for HF and UHF they only need to be in close proximity but aligned to the woofers.So I don't want to rush into something that won't work.But I want it to look good as well.I probably will apply some type of veneer.But most important is that it sounds best that trumps looks in my opinion.Thank You for your input as usual greatly appreciated !!! I hope you are feeling better.:2thumbsup:

[GM]

Greets!

Right, ideally the horn will be mounted in its own damped cab strong enough to support a fairly large MLTL, i.e. three separate speakers stacked up in the corner.

Well, 'best' becomes a floating target based on the needs of the app once a point source driver moves from either a dipole, infinite baffle (IB) or 'ideal' BLH, so for me it's some variation of a mass loaded TL (MLTL, ML-TQWT, ML-horn).

To keep woodworking relatively easy then, a simple triangular column speaker with the driver at one end and the vent at the other seems the best compromise WRT minimizing woofer-horn acoustic path-length differences, internal reflections and maximizing vent damping.


So, once the horn center-line/floor distance is determined, the rest can be calculated based on a 34" o.d. baffle width.

You're welcome! Not so good, but thanks for the thought!

GM

[Altec Best]

Greets!

Right, ideally the horn will be mounted in its own damped cab strong enough to support a fairly large MLTL, i.e. three separate speakers stacked up in the corner.

Well, 'best' becomes a floating target based on the needs of the app once a point source driver moves from either a dipole, infinite baffle (IB) or 'ideal' BLH, so for me it's some variation of a mass loaded TL (MLTL, ML-TQWT, ML-horn).

To keep woodworking relatively easy then, a simple triangular column speaker with the driver at one end and the vent at the other seems the best compromise WRT minimizing woofer-horn acoustic path-length differences, internal reflections and maximizing vent damping.


So, once the horn center-line/floor distance is determined, the rest can be calculated based on a 34" o.d. baffle width.

You're welcome! Not so good, but thanks for the thought!

GM

OK triangular will work since I'm looking for a corner cabinet in a way,as I want to push it into the corner as far back as it will go.It almost looks like the shape of a Klipsch Khorn, I'm going to play with some dimensions.The first will be front baffle 34" sides 12"x 24".Now does it have to be a perfect triangle or can I have sides that are at 90 degrees to the front baffle that are say 12" and then 24" here's an example.Will this work with the ports on the back sides near the walls.Here's a picture.Is this what you mean ??

BTW GM "Happy Belated Birthday" I know it is just another day. But have a Good One Anyway !! :2thumbsup: and Thanks again Regards ~ John